Posts Tagged ‘longboarding’

The Pep Talk

A Personal Pep Talk

Right. Its time for a good personal pep talk! God damn, I can do it! And I can do it DAMN WELL! Hear me ROAR!

Well, something like that… 🙂

So today is an absolutely wonderfully sunny Sunday and we are a few hours away from hitting the beach with our boards. It’s Barranca time again, and apparently the swell is excellent for me as a beginner. At least that is what my personal surf coach says 🙂 And that’s what this pep talk is all about, giving me the ooomph to hit those waves and not be scared about the steepness of them, or the force or them, or of my board hitting me, or of other surfers getting in my way, or of me getting caught in the leash, or of… Well, you get the point. Its a scary world out there for us beginner surfers.

But today I feel GRRRRREAT! And I am ready to hit those waves 100%! I am NOT going to pull out at the last minute and I am not going to bail on any great waves and I am not going to let a few waves taken over the head get me down. I am going to be as buoyant as my bloody board always is (making it oh so hard to get out there!) and not let any of this pull me down.

I am keeping my fingers crossed now that this pep talk will work and that I will have one of my BEST days EVER out there in the swell today! And if it doesn’t work, I will go with the “Eat Ice Cream” option from the card above.. HĂ€agenDazs super premium ice cream (as they modestly describe it on their website..) always works… 🙂

Women Surfers

I have just come to the conclusion that I think I should have a role model for surfing, someone who I like the style of and who I could learn a bit from.. So for the last few days I have tried to keep an eye out for some female surfers that would fit the bill. As mentioned, the most important criteria for me with regards to this, was that I wanted to find someone who’s style I like so that I can learn from that… Someone I can watch in action, and hence get an idea of what I would like to look like on the board…

So I found this lovely lady:

Kassia Meador. Ah, I very much like her style on the board and I have gotten so many wonderful ideas from watching a few of the videos about her that can be found on YouTube.. She ticks, well, the one box I had for this. 🙂

God damn I want to be able to do this! All of what she is doing! And get photos this amazing proving it! 🙂 She has inspired me so much to push myself further with the surfing (Although, not as much as J is inspiring me :)) that I cannot wait to get into the water again now. Thankfully I think that will happen already tomorrow! Bring it on!

International Day of Surf

Yesterday was the International Day of Surf and I didnt realise it until this morning when I logged into Facebook and saw that some of my friends were boasting about having celebrated this fabulous day. Thankfully I had also been in the waves yesterday, so I actually think I was celebrating it subconsciously…

Anyway, this weekend was such a lovely weekend I just have to talk about it. It was exactly what I needed following my slightly lost feeling last week as it reminded me yet again of all the fabulous things I have going on over here outside of work. We went to a lovely little B&B in Esparza, Oasis By The Sea. The B&B is run by Rob and Deb and their adorable and MASSIVE golden retriever Dude. We only had the pleasure of meeting Rob and Dude, since Deb was out of town. Even if Rob kept saying that it’s such a shame we won’t get to meet Deb, he and Dude received us with such amazing hospitality I cannot even start to imagine how it will be once we pop by and Deb is there… 🙂

Rob, who is an excellent pizza chef and makes the most amazing breakfasts, took excellent great care of me and J while Dude extended his hospitality to Sofia and played with her during the whole stay. Sofia was ecstatic about having a new friend but did seem a bit over excited about all the new adventures she was being treated to on her first weekend away so I think the sensory overload was a bit overwhelming for her… But my gosh I haven’t seen such a content little puppy in ages!

We arrived on Saturday and having dropped off Sofia, we basically headed right down to the beach for some waves. I practiced my pop for almost two hours before it was time for the evening’s treat back at the B&B – a gorgeous vegetarian pizza prepared by Rob in his own pizza oven (I am slightly jealous of it actually… ), accompanied by a glass of wine (for me and beer for J) and the gorgeous nocturnal views of Puntarenas and the Caldera harbour. We feasted on the pizza and the drinks in their wonderful little rancho that sits nestled among banana and papaya trees, beautiful flowers and amazing greenery on their own little hilltop next to where they build their little house. This proved to be the perfect end to a long day of travelling and surfing, and we passed out at about 8.15pm already…

Having slept almost 10hrs we got up almost at dawn to head down for another surf. Now THIS surf was excellent for me.. I sat among the nice waves where I felt safe and comfortable (and not all the way out with the monster waves) and managed to get 10 really nice rides during the morning as well as improve my take off and pop so I get on the wave earlier, and don’t end up nose diving it as per usual practice. I did miss the company of J a bit, but he is such a great surfer and it would have been a real shame to get him to come in to the smaller waves when he was doing so well on the monster ones! Although, I must say I think the longboard styling is a bit funny at times 🙂 I have to look into this a bit more, to really understand what I should be aiming at doing on a longboard… 😉

Following our early 2 hour morning surf, we were treated to a gorgeous Texan dish called “Migas” which proved to be exactly what we needed to replenish our depleted energy reserves! Migas starts off as a kind of stir fry with peppers, tomatoes, onions and tortillas cut into smaller slices and heated up till lovely and tender. At this point the eggs are mixed with milk and spices and chucked into the mix. You then rummage around a bit until the eggs are all cooked and you have what looks a bit like a very generous omelette. Serve up on plates, add some grated cheese, coriander and jalapeños according to your liking and voilĂ ! Done!

We headed off back home around mid day since we needed to do a bit of a clean up of the house before our landlords came over for some tea and cake. I made another apple crumble for our landlord since he absolutely loves apple and cinnamon things, especially apple pie. As predicted it went down very well! I also prepared some custard (one of my favourite desserts, and super easy now thanks to J’s mum who gave me a massive Bird’s Custard Powder to take with me..) and a tuna salad to have something savoury before all the sweet treats. Sofia was a bit surprised to have guests in the house since we haven’t really had anyone over since we got her so it was yet another new experience for her.

Following so much excitement and so many novelties Sofia more or less passed out on the sofa around 5pm already. I have never seen her so tired and calm! Then again, I do understand her, I was pretty exhausted as well and didn’t take long to dose off into la-la-land myself following yet another excellent weekend in Costa Rica…