I have been very lucky during my first seven weeks here in Costa Rica, the weather has been amazing, the house is incredible, work is fairly interesting and spending time with the lovely J is simply wonderful.. Most amazingly I have also been able to spend time in the water on my board more or less every weekend of these last seven weeks!
My board is a beautiful Epoxy beginner board with a mad green lining… Kind of like this one here.. But still not.. Its my “step up” board that I have moved up to from the yellow swellie I got to enjoy while surfing in Cornwall at the end of last summer. I am mighty proud that I have moved up to the next level already, and I do love my board. Even if it can really p*** me off when it cooperates with the evil waves and throws me off into the waves, providing me with yet another washing machine experience..
Most of the time we have surfed Esterillos Oeste, a beautiful beach about 20km south from Jaco. A few weeks back J found a little studio flat in Esterillos Oeste that the owners wished to rent out on a daily basis. This fortunate turn suddenly meant that we were in the extremely lucky situation of having our own little weekend house, with a beautiful hammock on the terrace and a three legged cat as the closest neighbour, at our disposal more or less whenever needed.
So in spite of my weekly renewal of my knee bruises and the occasional head bump or random bruise elsewhere on my still a bit white body, I love the effect surfing has on me. I love sitting on the board and bopping on the waves while waiting for a kind wave to come along, I love the excitement of catching a wave and getting up on my feet to enjoy the long or short ride it offers me, and I love the peace and quiet I feel inside after having done something so physically exhausting yet at the same time rewarding. A few bruises are a small price to pay for so much pleasure.